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It’s starting to feel a whole lot like 2015 in here.
By Jake Woolf
For a certain type of guy, rawdenim can be a gateway into the world of men's fashion. From there, it’s only a matter of time before our indigo-pilled fella doubles down on his love of period-correct Americana, obsessing over jeans from a specific era (maybe even mortgaging his houseto bid on a pair!) orembracing modernity with gusto, ditching the straight-legged stuff in favor of the wackiest options in SSENSE's catalog. These days, though, the Venn diagram separating those two archetypes is starting to look a little more like a circle: raw denim is staging a comeback—jeans-whisperers like 3sixteen's Andrew Chen have confirmed as much—this time with a very 2023 twist.
Unlike the raw denim that dominated themenswear conversation in the 2010s, the jeans we’re talking about here can do more than just stand up on their own. Instead, designers of the highest order are treating the fabric as a blank canvas to apply their signature flare—sometimes literally. The silhouettes are looser and flowier, the branding is more overt, and the hems are largely intended to be worn uncuffed; in most cases, the jeans themselves, not the red-trimmed evidence of their Japanese provenance, are the flex. They’ll still whisker with the best of 'em, but they’re meant to be worn howyou want, with way more just than awaxed jacket andwork boots.
Jonesing to rock a pair with a sharp black blazer and chunky,lug-soled loafers? Have at it. Feeling agraphic tee instead of a Brando-inspired undershirt? Do you! Below, we rounded up 16 standouts from the burgeoning raw denim resurgence for you to freak however your heart desires. Denimheads, rejoice—and then prep the saltwater bath.
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1/16
A.P.C. "Fairfax" jeans
A.P.C.'s low-rise jeans offered an entry point into the raw denim galaxy for an entire generation of menswear obsessives. If it's been a while since you've shimmied into a pair of the French brand's denim, this baggy, extremely 2023 pair comes with a touch of stretch to make your return a smooth journey.
2/16
Kenzo straight fit jeans
Yesterday's raw denim was all about subtlety; you usually needed a magnifying glass to properly ID their origins. Today's versions are still made from top-notch materials, but their distinguishing details—like the bright red logo patch on the back pocket here—are a gatekeeper's nightmare.
3/16
Buck Mason Japanese full saddle jeans
Forget leg-lengthening surgery: all it takes to to make yourself look instantly taller is a pair of high-rise dungarees that sit right at your actual waist.
4/16
See AlsoWhat is Raw Denim? Learn About Untreated JeansRaw Denim Jeans Herren/Damen ➠ nach Maß & Wunsch ✄What to Know About Raw Denim (And Which Men’s Jeans to Buy)If You Want Sick Fades Come Spring, Buy Your Raw Denim NowWrangler cowboy cut jeans
A perfect storm of current menswear touchstones.
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5/16
Kapital century denim 5p monkey cisco jeans
Any denim stamped with the Kapital seal of approval is the real deal, but the brand's sashiko-stitched jeans are a grail-in-the-making that puts the less artful stuff to shame.
6/16
Taiga Takihashi indigo wide leg jeans
What Taiga Takihashi's riff lacks in built-in stretch it makes up for in breathing room—the baggy fit helps the wear process feel a little kinder on your gams as you ease back into the raw denim waters.
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7/16
Bottega Veneta jeans
The easiest way to make regular ol' raw denim feel like righteous, capital-F fashion? Add a carpenter loop and give the legs a runway-ready flare. (The Bottega Veneta tag doesn't hurt, either.)
8/16
3sixteen CS-100xk classic straight jeans
3sixteen has been a favorite of in-the-know denimheads for over a decade. The next time you re-up on the brand's legendary Kiroki Mills denim, reach for a pair outfitted with a fuller leg—and, most important—a once-washed treatment that saves you the time (and pain) of breaking them in.
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9/16
Corridor organic Italian 5 pocket jeans
It's no surprise that Corridor—the Brooklyn-based brand bringing nice, normal clothes to the masses—cuts their raw denim a little wider and a touch softer than you might be used to. You know what else isn't surprising? How fast these'll become your favorite pair of pants.
10/16
Stan Ray OG painter pants
You could wear these high-rise joints to a paint n' sip outing to score some authentic, well-earned splatters, but when the time comes to ogle actual art at your buddy's gallery opening, they'll look just as sick with a cardigan and derbies.
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11/16
Acne 1992 regular fit jeans
The bootcut revival isn't coming—it's already here. But Acne's gently-flared jeans give us hope that this time around, they won't be joined by droves of dudes in puka shell necklaces.
12/16
Noah pleated jeans
Pleats are the easiest way to loosen up a pair of tailored trousers. Who says that same logic can't apply to jeans?
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13/16
Camiel Fortgens grandma jeans
Ultra-baggy, elastic waist joints that'll make you wonder why you ever forced your way into skinny-fit selvedge in the first place.
14/16
Rick Owens DRKSHDW "Geth" jeans
When even Rick Owens—the dark overlord of calf-hugging, stacked black denim—starts churning out baggy raw jeans (still in black, of course), you know something must be in the indigo-stained water.
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15/16
Carson Wach 33 raw indigo jeans
Come for the storied Cone Mills pedigree, stay for the deliciously precise wide-but-not-baggy fit.
16/16
Wales Bonner wide-leg jeans
Business in the front, party—along with patches and pockets!—in the back.
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