Ready Your Thighs for the Raw Denim Resurgence (2024)

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It’s starting to feel a whole lot like 2015 in here.

By Jake Woolf

Ready Your Thighs for the Raw Denim Resurgence (4)

    For a certain type of guy, rawdenim can be a gateway into the world of men's fashion. From there, it’s only a matter of time before our indigo-pilled fella doubles down on his love of period-correct Americana, obsessing over jeans from a specific era (maybe even mortgaging his houseto bid on a pair!) orembracing modernity with gusto, ditching the straight-legged stuff in favor of the wackiest options in SSENSE's catalog. These days, though, the Venn diagram separating those two archetypes is starting to look a little more like a circle: raw denim is staging a comeback—jeans-whisperers like 3sixteen's Andrew Chen have confirmed as much—this time with a very 2023 twist.

    Unlike the raw denim that dominated themenswear conversation in the 2010s, the jeans we’re talking about here can do more than just stand up on their own. Instead, designers of the highest order are treating the fabric as a blank canvas to apply their signature flare—sometimes literally. The silhouettes are looser and flowier, the branding is more overt, and the hems are largely intended to be worn uncuffed; in most cases, the jeans themselves, not the red-trimmed evidence of their Japanese provenance, are the flex. They’ll still whisker with the best of 'em, but they’re meant to be worn howyou want, with way more just than awaxed jacket andwork boots.

    Jonesing to rock a pair with a sharp black blazer and chunky,lug-soled loafers? Have at it. Feeling agraphic tee instead of a Brando-inspired undershirt? Do you! Below, we rounded up 16 standouts from the burgeoning raw denim resurgence for you to freak however your heart desires. Denimheads, rejoice—and then prep the saltwater bath.

    All products featured on GQ are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission.

    • Ready Your Thighs for the Raw Denim Resurgence (5)

      1/16

      A.P.C. "Fairfax" jeans

      A.P.C.'s low-rise jeans offered an entry point into the raw denim galaxy for an entire generation of menswear obsessives. If it's been a while since you've shimmied into a pair of the French brand's denim, this baggy, extremely 2023 pair comes with a touch of stretch to make your return a smooth journey.

    • Ready Your Thighs for the Raw Denim Resurgence (6)

      2/16

      Kenzo straight fit jeans

      Yesterday's raw denim was all about subtlety; you usually needed a magnifying glass to properly ID their origins. Today's versions are still made from top-notch materials, but their distinguishing details—like the bright red logo patch on the back pocket here—are a gatekeeper's nightmare.

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      5/16

      Kapital century denim 5p monkey cisco jeans

      Any denim stamped with the Kapital seal of approval is the real deal, but the brand's sashiko-stitched jeans are a grail-in-the-making that puts the less artful stuff to shame.

    • Ready Your Thighs for the Raw Denim Resurgence (10)

      6/16

      Taiga Takihashi indigo wide leg jeans

      What Taiga Takihashi's riff lacks in built-in stretch it makes up for in breathing room—the baggy fit helps the wear process feel a little kinder on your gams as you ease back into the raw denim waters.

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      7/16

      Bottega Veneta jeans

      The easiest way to make regular ol' raw denim feel like righteous, capital-F fashion? Add a carpenter loop and give the legs a runway-ready flare. (The Bottega Veneta tag doesn't hurt, either.)

    • Ready Your Thighs for the Raw Denim Resurgence (12)

      8/16

      3sixteen CS-100xk classic straight jeans

      3sixteen has been a favorite of in-the-know denimheads for over a decade. The next time you re-up on the brand's legendary Kiroki Mills denim, reach for a pair outfitted with a fuller leg—and, most important—a once-washed treatment that saves you the time (and pain) of breaking them in.

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      9/16

      Corridor organic Italian 5 pocket jeans

      It's no surprise that Corridor—the Brooklyn-based brand bringing nice, normal clothes to the masses—cuts their raw denim a little wider and a touch softer than you might be used to. You know what else isn't surprising? How fast these'll become your favorite pair of pants.

    • Ready Your Thighs for the Raw Denim Resurgence (14)

      10/16

      Stan Ray OG painter pants

      You could wear these high-rise joints to a paint n' sip outing to score some authentic, well-earned splatters, but when the time comes to ogle actual art at your buddy's gallery opening, they'll look just as sick with a cardigan and derbies.

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      11/16

      Acne 1992 regular fit jeans

      The bootcut revival isn't coming—it's already here. But Acne's gently-flared jeans give us hope that this time around, they won't be joined by droves of dudes in puka shell necklaces.

    • Ready Your Thighs for the Raw Denim Resurgence (16)

      12/16

      Noah pleated jeans

      Pleats are the easiest way to loosen up a pair of tailored trousers. Who says that same logic can't apply to jeans?

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      13/16

      Camiel Fortgens grandma jeans

      Ultra-baggy, elastic waist joints that'll make you wonder why you ever forced your way into skinny-fit selvedge in the first place.

    • Ready Your Thighs for the Raw Denim Resurgence (18)

      14/16

      Rick Owens DRKSHDW "Geth" jeans

      When even Rick Owens—the dark overlord of calf-hugging, stacked black denim—starts churning out baggy raw jeans (still in black, of course), you know something must be in the indigo-stained water.

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      15/16

      Carson Wach 33 raw indigo jeans

      Come for the storied Cone Mills pedigree, stay for the deliciously precise wide-but-not-baggy fit.

    • Ready Your Thighs for the Raw Denim Resurgence (20)

      16/16

      Wales Bonner wide-leg jeans

      Business in the front, party—along with patches and pockets!—in the back.

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